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Plant SOS · Care

How to prune your
houseplants?

6 min read · Updated June 2025

✂️ThemeCare
🌱LevelBeginner
⏱️Reading6 minutes

Many amateur gardeners hesitate to prune their houseplants — for fear of damaging them or doing it incorrectly. However, proper pruning at the right time is one of the most beneficial actions for most plants: it stimulates branching, removes diseased parts, restores a beautiful shape, and can even restart stagnant growth. The golden rule: never prune without reason, and never without the right tool.

Why prune your plants?

Pruning is not a trivial act — it serves specific objectives. Before reaching for the scissors, identify why you are pruning.

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Stimulate branching

Cutting a plant's main stem forces lateral buds to develop. The result: a denser, bushier plant. Essential for pothos, tradescantia, ficus, and all plants that tend to grow tall without branching.

✂️

Remove dead or diseased parts

Dead leaves, dry stems, and areas affected by disease or pests must be removed promptly. They unnecessarily consume energy and can spread infection to healthy parts.

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Control size and shape

Certain plants (ficus, schefflera, ficus elastica) can grow very large if left unchecked. Regular pruning keeps the plant at a size appropriate for your indoor space.

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Revitalize a tired plant

A plant that has lost its lower foliage or has long, sparsely leaved stems can be rejuvenated by severe pruning. The plant often regrows with renewed vigor from the base.

"Never prune without reason,
and never without disinfecting the tool."

When to prune?

The vast majority of pruning is done in spring — from March to May. The plant emerges from dormancy and is ready to invest in new growth after cutting. Lateral buds react quickly, and recovery is vigorous.

Outside of spring, prune only if necessary: dead leaves to remove, diseased stems to cut urgently. Avoid extensive pruning in winter — the plant is dormant and recovers much more slowly.

✔ Exception — pruning dead leaves Fully dead or severely damaged leaves can be removed at any time of year without negative impact. This is routine maintenance, not true pruning.

The right tools

The right tool makes all the difference. A clean cut with a clean tool heals quickly and limits the risk of infection. A cut made with dull scissors crushes tissues and leaves an open wound prone to infection.

✂️ Fine gardening shears

For small stems, leaves, and delicate plants. Must be clean and sharp.

🔪 Bypass pruners

For medium to thick stems (ficus, schefflera). Clean cut in a single motion.

🗡️ Sharpened grafting knife

For cuttings and very precise cuts. Ultra-sharp blade, perfect results.

🧴 70% alcohol for disinfection

Essential between each plant. Eliminates pathogens that could be transmitted from one plant to another.

⚠ Always disinfect before pruning

Wipe the blade of your tool with 70% alcohol before each use and between each plant. An undisinfected tool can transmit fungal or bacterial diseases from one plant to another without you knowing it.

The 4 pruning techniques

1

Cleaning prune — remove dead parts

This is the simplest and most frequent type of pruning. It involves removing dead leaves, dry stems, and faded flowers. It can be done at any time of year.

  1. Identify dead, yellowed, or heavily damaged leaves.
  2. Cut flush with the main stem using disinfected scissors — never pull, as you risk damaging the stem.
  3. Also remove entirely dry stems at their base.
2

Branching prune — densify foliage

You cut the tips of stems to force lateral buds to develop. The plant becomes denser and bushier instead of growing tall. Ideal in spring for pothos, tradescantia, ficus, spider plants.

  1. Identify the longest stems that give the plant a "leggy" appearance.
  2. Cut just above a leaf node — this is where new growth will emerge.
  3. The cut should be clean, slightly angled, 5 mm above the node.
  4. The removed cuttings can be used to propagate new plants.
3

Shaping prune — control the silhouette

For plants with naturally dense or bushy growth (indoor boxwood, ficus, schefflera), regular pruning maintains a harmonious shape. You remove branches that extend too far or break the desired silhouette.

  1. Observe the plant as a whole before pruning — identify branches that unbalance the shape.
  2. Always cut above a node or a fork to avoid bare stubs.
  3. Work gradually — it's better to cut too little than too much.
4

Rejuvenation prune — start from scratch

For a very tired, very tall plant or one that has lost all its lower foliage, severe pruning in spring can transform it. Stems are cut 10-15 cm from the ground. It's radical but often salvific.

  1. Reserve this technique for spring only — the plant must be in full health to withstand the shock.
  2. Cut stems to the desired height, always above a node.
  3. After pruning, water moderately and place in a bright location.
  4. New shoots usually appear within 2 to 4 weeks.

What pruning for which plant?

Plant Recommended pruning Type Period
Pothos, Tradescantia Yes — regular Branching Spring-Summer
Ficus elastica, Ficus benjamina Yes Shape + branching Spring only
Schefflera, Brassaia Yes Shape + rejuvenation Spring
Monstera Light Dead leaves only All year
Dracaena Light Dead leaves + leggy tops Spring
Calathea, Maranta Light Damaged leaves only All year
Orchid Light Flower stalks after blooming After blooming
Cactus & Succulents No pruning Avoid
Zamioculcas, Sansevieria No pruning Dead leaves only If necessary
Climbing Philodendron Yes Branching + propagation Spring-Summer

Mistakes to avoid

❌ Cutting too far from a node

If you cut a stem leaving a segment without a leaf or node, that piece will die and rot progressively. Always cut 5 mm above a node or a fork — never in the middle of an internode.

❌ Pruning with an undisinfected tool

This is the main cause of diseases transmitted during pruning. 70% alcohol on the blade before each use — it's a 10-second gesture that can prevent weeks of problems.

❌ Pruning too severely outside of spring

Severe pruning in autumn or winter can permanently weaken a plant. During dormancy, it doesn't have the energy to produce new growth to replace what was cut. Wait until March for major interventions.

✔ Bonus — use cuttings Stems cut during branching pruning are often perfect for propagation. Don't throw them away — plant them directly in moist substrate or let them soak in water. It's the easiest way to multiply your plants for free.

✂️ For clean pruning

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🌿 Guide written by the Douceur Maison Plant SOS team.

We write practical guides to help enthusiasts care for their indoor plants. · sosplantes@douceurmaison.fr

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